Strangers In A Moment
After several creative conversations between musician and artist Bertie Blackman and Chorus the result is a new collection - Strangers in a Moment - based around the ideas that fed Blackman’s latest album - The Dash.
Taking strong cues from the rhythmic qualities, pop atmosphere and 80’s influences of the song Strangers is a Moment, the collection is focused on an abstract exploration of stripes. Stripes interrupt classic garments, become dividing lines on the body and appear as motifs within fabrication. As is often the case at Chorus we investigated the merging of garment stereotypes, the shirt, the tuxedo, the kimono, the t-shirt all blur into each other.
We admire the way Blackman effortlessly blurs the lines between strong and masculine and something very girly, both in her music and personal style and have reflected this in fabrication and embellishment – mixing pinstripe wools, stiff poplins and corduroy with silk lamè and hand cut sequins exploding as if someone threw confetti on you on the dance floor.
The conversation culminates in short film of the same name, written, produced and directed by Ramona Telecican and Andrew Kavanagh.
The Release - Chorus’ third collection, is based around the physical and psychological idea of letting go – focusing on the feeling of release given when one dances.
Garments in this collection are extrapolations of ideas formed in response to a brief given by artist Rafaela Pandolfini. For her latest work ‘Loose With Pleasure’ Pandolfini grapples with the reciprocity of pleasure and pain explored through moments of being lost in movement. Pandolfi asked Chorus to create garments that allowed her subjects move wildly, freely and hedonistically.
These concepts of control and freedom prompted design investigations into asymmetric forms, wrapping, layering, pleating, contrasts of volume and tightness, as well as research into Judo uniforms, motifs and terminology. Stills from 1978 martial arts film ‘Heros of the East’ and vintage instructional magazines presenting movement frozen in time were of particular inspiration. As always at Chorus this research has been interpreted both in a highly considered and humorously off handed manor. Elements of the Judo uniform can be seen in soft suiting, tie fastenings and generous proportions. Literal motifs of judo men caught in motion are printed onto jersey styles and laser cut from multi coloured acrylic appearing in the form of jewellery, accessories and embellishment. Judo terminology reflecting physical or emotive characteristics is used to name each piece.
Chorus’ staple clean lines, refined finishes, combinations of matt and shine are worked into an unexpectedly bright colour palette of raspberry and tangerine offset by silver greys and grounded in ubiquitous black.Bringing this creative collaboration full circle Rafaela Pandolfini, has caught The Release in motion on the talented Lilian Stiener.
The Lab - Chorus’ second collection of softly tailored women’s wear brings to life a set of characters from an imagined world. The Doctor, Patient, Factory worker and Shopkeeper ensembles are refinements of costumes designed by Chorus for a live performance staged by artist Lucy McRae. Continuing their desire to explore the design process from varied angles, Chorus participated in this performance as both actors & creators and have transformed the experience into the collection.
The original costumes embracing McRae’s possible future were created without a single stitch. Medical tape held the pieces together echoing the Laboratory aesthetic. In their refined state, taped seams have been made functional by the use of bonded ribbon over a series of clean diagonal lines. The original colour palette of soft fleshy pinks, cool sterile grey and white has had an injection of red to bring the sanguine references to the fore. The gold element mirroring the world of luxury perfume production explored in the performance has been used both in subtle hardware details and pushed to the point of jest in pieces that continue the mix of garment typologies seen in the first Chorus collection. Apron styles cover both the intended utilitarian purpose in transparent plastic and are reinterpreted into refined open backed dresses and tops. The collection focuses on tactile wool crepe and jersey mixed with silk organza with a graph paper like check print - again referencing the Laboratory - water repellant sateen has been used for Lab coat styles. Jersey and stretch fabrications exist as panelling or entire garments building upon Chorus’ desire for functionality and comfort masked in luxury.The look book shown below features the beautiful Ela Stiles of Australian band Songs and was shot by the very talented Sarah Pannell. Look book design by Pandarosa. Shoes by Habbot.
The WardrobeThe debut of Chorus sees the release of the quintessential 'wardrobe' of women's clothing and accessories.
For this first collaboration Chorus asked friends and ecstatic surface designers Pinar Demirdag and Viola Renate to take the same approach and consider their reinvention of classic fashion print motifs. Pinar&Viola, the Turkish / Dutch, Amsterdam based design duo are known for their unrelenting scanning of contemporary visual culture and regurgitation of it into radical new graphic form seemed like the obvious choice to free the classic its history. The outcome is a truly ecstatic surface design printed across garments and accessories, presenting us with an excessive, intricate and contemporary interpretation of stereotypical fashion motifs.
Pinar and Viola